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They found it in the form of gold and slaves. I was searching for riches of a different type. Oh, yes, African perfection exists. But what about the Middle East? Hey, if western India and the Maldives have surf…. It had been a long road to get there, and a painfully rough, dusty, blistering hot road to find a few waves. Thick righthanders could be seen breaking into a deep-water channel. The picture stayed etched into my mind for months, and, slowly, almost subconsciously, an idea was born. I had to go and surf in this desert of myth and mystery. But a few guys did stumble upon watery fortune off Yemen Sluts in thurso east year, confirming all speculation that, yes, the Gulf of Aden is indeed holding.

I even wanted the hassle of the military trying to kick us off the island. I was on a remote Russian island, surfing a virgin beachbreak by myself in a fierce storm in the Okhotsk Sea. In the case of Australian Tony Hinde, it was an act of fate. Led by wanderlust to Asia in the early s, Hinde and friend Mark Scanlon spent some time in Sri Lanka with before boarding a spiffy yacht captained by a sketchy Sluts in thurso east and his pet monkey. Africa, thousands of miles and a world of dreams away. But instead of reaching Africa, the crew ran aground on Maldivian coral four days into the trip. The pair eventually left for India, but Hinde returned to the Maldives shortly thereafter—for him, the seed was set.

What he found changed his life forever: Take Costa Rica, for example: Several Westerners also exist in Bali, perhaps the most benign Indonesian island for Western acclimatization. Satellite images from anywhere in the world, beamed through your computer screen for a price. Wondering if a random reef pass in Kiribati is breaking right now? No problem—just click and zoom in. All it takes is money, time, willingness, planning…and plenty of classic wonder. Airplanes, trains, buses, boats, subways, rental cars, rickshaws, taxis, donkeys, motorcycles, bicycles, scooters, camels, human feet—all modes of transportation from here to there, be it Port Elizabeth or Port Blair. Some come in packages, others come as full-tilt feral rumbles in the jungle.

Or somewhere in between. Could be a weekend Baja jaunt in the Suburban, a two-week scouring of Norway, or a four-month tour of duty around Australia. Point is, surf travel is an open road. So get out there and do it. This interview was never published. Pu'u videoed and shot stills while I asked most of the questions. Yater's son, Lauran, made a cameo. Yater on Stearns Wharf in Santa Barbara, I was born in Los Angeles in Grew up just prior to the second world war, and then through it, and mostly in Laguna Beach. A little bit of Pasadena, also. I got acclimated to the ocean really early. About all we did was bodysurf in the slam-dunk beachbreak of Laguna Beach.

For some reason, they got into Pasadena, because that was kind of a moving area at the time, real estate-wise. We did maybe three of them in Pasadena though the time when I was in, oh Christ, kindergarten all the way up through my first year in college. You went to college? Southern California during the war was pretty damn neat. The very lack of population, number one. To me, it was great because of the resources in the ocean. They were really pretty much untapped at that time, so there was an abundance of it, and you could make a living harvesting it, to a certain extent. Of course, there was only a limited market for selling some of the stuff. Were you lucky to be alive back then?

I think it was a great era for somebody to grow up in and experience, compared to now. Has Southern California gone downhill? I could see them coming over the hill. Do you remember your first wave? There were trailers there on the beach; it was all bare land. Anyway, the waves at the point in the summer were a lot better than that crappy slam-dunk stuff in Laguna. So that got me interested. And once in a while, some lifeguards would come down with big planks and ride the stuff. Difficult, but they did it. I remember buying a board—a plank. Was it from Pacific Redi Homes? Yeah, it was one of those, just like the big one over there at the store, 90 pounds of it.

Dave How old were you when you rode that thing? Dave How much did you weigh? It took two of us to lift it. Dave How would you get it to the beach? And that was your first board? It went so fast, I fell right off the back. Did it have a fin? But they were starting to show up, and they were just like little keels, about an inch or two high and about a foot long.

That was the first fin they put on the round-bottomed planks. Eventually we wound up going Slus where we could drive cars to San Onofre. Guys were coming back from the war. Might have been a couple dozens guys there on the weekend. Nobody ewst Sluts in thurso east week? What led you to shape your first board? While I tthurso in Pasadena, there was a kid who lived around the corner Slutd Tim Lyons who had started surfing Malibu. We both went Sluys the same school. He started surfing Malibu and thurxo ran in to Bob Simmons. His Sluts in thurso east i on Oakland Xxx video hot porn, and he was doing this stuff in the backyard.

He was still in school, I think, and then he bailed out of CalTech eventually. I think he was in his upper 20s. And then he started to put scoop on the nose of the boards, just adding a scoop up in the front of the board. If you look at the boards ridden at Malibu in that era, there were a bunch of planks with scoops on the front. Then he started to turn the rails down a little bit, you know, from the sharp edge, being up real high like that. Then he started to curve them down a little bit. He just kept on doing it until he really went down on the rails. He was just sort of meeting them right in the middle for a long time.

But it started the flow of that direction. So I started seeing what these guys were doing, especially at Malibu. So I started reshaping in my backyard. Dave When you guys were doing that, how many people surfed in California? But in that area down there, it started to grow after the second world war. New faces started to show up a little bit, and it was growing slowly. It was still the same game—fun on the weekends, surf, camaraderie, then go back to work or school. The guys who got G.

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Hundreds and hundreds of them. One of the most beautiful, beautiful things. Unless you were bungee jumping off lightning bolts or something. Sometimes you do find yourself sitting in a sewage pit. I think surfing makes you appreciate nature that little bit more, through spending time in a raw form of it. A lot of surfers are able to read weather charts and reports really well. Takes some dedication I tell you! Surfing is totally unique, I think. You attach an object and it takes you in a straight line. Places are a lot busier now.


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